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20 Warm Coats With Hoods That Will Get You Through Sleet, Rain, and Snow

Le 10 December 2014, 14:15 dans Humeurs 0

Now that Pantone has crowned Marsala as its chosen color for 2015, you need look no further than Gucci for proof of its desirability. The house's Pre-Fall collection was awash in a similar brick-red hue, cut here with a dusty blue. But that was not the only forecasting to emerge from the brand's Florence showroom today: If creative director Frida Giannini has her way, the '70s revival that is already upon us will last past next summer and into fall. Of course, that era marked a golden age for Gucci and has remained a constant reference point for the brand ever since. But just as one letter separates referential from reverential, small details can result in an entirely different collection. Here, the offering proved stylistically sharp (flats for evening!) and negligibly nostalgic. Flared pants jauntily cloaked the pointy-toe brogues, while knee-length, printed silk chemisier dresses felt attractively seasonless and ageless in equal measure.


Those prints, as it happens, made a U-turn from the painterly Resort collection florals created by artist Kris Knight, who was enthusiastically feted by Giannini at Art Basel in Miami Beach last week. This latest crop veered geometric, the most notable featuring a lattice pattern arranged fluidly like an op art illusion around the body. Even a stacked leaf print, appealingly rendered in contrasting warm and cool tones, seemed more camo than botanical.


Zoom out from these particulars and you find a collection that alternated between amped up and pared back. Clusters of crystals adorned distressed jeans, and studs followed the pattern of Nordic-inspired sweaters. Luxurious but understated leather and suede coats and daywear dresses, meanwhile, came unlined and unstructured; ditto a brushed double-face wool camel coat. Essentially, these were different sides of the same craftsmanship coin—it's just that the former appeals to the Gucci customer who buys for the statement (her best bet: the embellished Persian lamb cropped jacket with shaggy Mongolian trim), and the latter attracts the client who prioritizes staying power. This season, they might find common ground with a new bag: The boxy accordion construction—in shiny calfskin or python—hinged monogram closure, and double-chain straps were a throwback to the '70s, but the effect was still fresh.

Kenya Security Shakeup After Extremist Attacks

Le 2 December 2014, 15:45 dans Humeurs 0

Kenya Violance

Islamic extremists killed 36 non-Muslim quarry workers in northern Kenya early Tuesday, prompting Kenya's president to announce a security shakeup Tuesday, firing his Interior Minister and accepting the resignation of the national police chief.


President Uhuru Kenyatta named an opposition politician and retired army general, Joseph Nkaissery, to be the new Interior Minister, in charge of security. Police Chief David Kimaiyo resigned, citing personal reasons.


Public pressure had been mounting for the two officials to be replaced following a string of extremist attacks.


The Tuesday killings happened at a quarry in Mandera County near the border with Somalia and the attackers escaped. The attackers singled out the non-Muslims and killed them, similar to an extremist attack on a bus 10 days ago.


The killings were claimed by al-Shabab, which has been battling for years to establish hard-line Islamic rule in Somalia.


At the quarry, a group of about 50 heavily armed men walked into the camp at 12:30 a.m. as the workers were sleeping and fired warning shots, said Peter Nderitu, who works at the quarry.


Nderitu said when he heard the shooting he ran and hid in a trench from where he could hear his colleagues being asked to recite the Shahada, an Islamic creed declaring oneness with God. Then gunshots followed. He only rose from his hiding place two hours later when he was sure there was no more movement, he said. The bodies of his colleagues were in two rows and nearly all had been shot in the back of the head, he said.


The quarry camp is in the Koromey area on the outskirts of Mandera town.


Al-Shabab spokesman Sheikh Ali Mohamud Rage said the latest attack was a response to Kenya's troop presence in Somalia and alleged atrocities committed by the Kenyan army there, such as a recent airstrike. Al-Shabab claimed the airstrike killed innocent people and destroyed their property. The Kenyan government said the airstrike was in response to a Nov. 22 al-Shabab attack on bus passengers in Mandera County that left 28 people dead.


In that attack, the non-Muslims were also separated from other passengers and shot dead.


About 100 non-Muslims last week sought refuge at the army base in Mandera, demanding that the government evacuate them.


President Uhuru Kenyatta's chief of staff, Joseph Kinyua, attempted to persuade non-Muslim from leaving Mandera County, whose population is predominantly Kenyan Muslims of Somali origin. Those who wanted to be evacuated argued that they cannot stay because governor himself is not safe. Mandera Gov. Ali Roba survived an improvised explosive device attack on his vehicle on October 15.


The quarry attack came hours after a hotel in Wajir, also in northern Kenya, was hit by a grenade and gunfire, killing one person and wounding 13, said police.


Al-Shabab has vowed to attack Kenya for sending its troops into Somalia to fight the rebels. The Kenyan military was deployed to Somalia in Oct 2011. Since then Kenya has experienced a series of explosive and gun attacks blamed on the militants.


"I have been saying for a long time that these terrorists want to create chaos in the country by creating divisions between Muslims and Christians," said Mandera County Senator Billow Kerrow.


Kerrow said al-Shabab is also trying to fuel tribal animosity by choosing to attack other tribes and leaving out the Kenyan Somali community who are the majority in Mandera County.

Funding For Scottish Designers To Create A Zero Waste Fashion Range

Le 21 November 2014, 13:54 dans Humeurs 0

Launched at a sustainable fashion symposium at the Lighthouse in Glasgow, leading sustainable fashion designer Orsola de Castro (pictured right) took a break from designing dresses to wear to the Oscars to call on Scottish designers to take a more environmentally friendly approach to designing clothes.

The event, hosted by Zero Waste Scotland and the Scottish Textile and Leather Association (STLA) was chaired by presenter Janice Forsyth and looked at ways to reduce the environmental impact of clothing.

Orsola de Castro delivered the keynote speech, being an internationally recognised leader in sustainable fashion, and who runs the eco-fashion label From Somewhere and co-ordinates the sustainable fashion area Estethica at London Fashion Week.

Orsola has designed collections using reclaimed fabrics for Topshop and an Oscar dress for Colin Firth’s wife Livia as part of the “Green Carpet” initiative designed to bring sustainable fashion to the red carpet.

Orsola de Castro, designer – “I am delighted to take part in this exciting initiative with Zero Waste Scotland. The industry needs to take a positive approach to a changing world and sustainability will inevitably penetrate all aspects of the fashion an textile design and production”

Orsola called on Scottish designers to embrace the possibilities of using reclaimed and re-used textiles by launching a new fund to enable Scottish fashion designers to create zero waste, closed-loop clothing and apparel ranges.

Clothing contributes around 5 percent of the carbon footprint and between 6-8 percent of the water footprint of all the UK’s goods and services and accounts for more than a million tonnes of wasted materials.

Zero Waste Scotland’s new fund will allow Scottish designers to lead the way in reducing textile waste by adopting new innovative methods such as zero waste pattern design, designing clothes to be easily disassembled and repurposed and using closed loop textiles made from recycled materials.

Chief executive of Zero Waste Scotland Iain Gulland commented: “It’s incredibly exciting to see Scotland leading the conversation on sustainability in textiles.

“We have a really diverse and engaged mix of textile producers and clothing designers here in Scotland, and the funding we have announced today will enable the industry to start testing out ways to make waste a thing of the past in textiles, and create a circular textile economy that sees fabric flow in a cycle of re-use and eliminate waste to landfill.”

Orsola de Castro commented: “I am delighted to take part in this exciting initiative with Zero Waste Scotland. The industry needs to take a positive approach to a changing world and sustainability will inevitably penetrate all aspects of the fashion an textile design and production.

“We need to look at waste as a resource, and inspire young designers to its immense creative potential and help the industry to understand its viability, scalability and role in the future.”

The textile symposium explored the possibilities for a circular economy approach to the Scottish textiles industry, and was attended by over 80 delegates from across the clothing, fashion, retail, textile manufacturing and design sectors and was followed by a catwalk show by Scotland Re:Designed.

Scotland Re:Designed is a Creative Scotland funded programme designed to stimulate innovation and growth in Scotland’s fashion industry. Zero Waste Scotland’s Love Your Clothes campaign is sponsoring an award at the Scotland Re: Designed awards on 21 November, which will see the winner receive funding and mentoring from a top designer to create a fashion range from recycled textiles.

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